truffle-growing Scenery of the truffle: present and future  


Summary: some institutes of research have adopted biomolecular methods to analyse and identify mycorrhizae although mycorrhization techniques haven’t achieved good results yet. This is particularly true in regard to the Tuber magnatum from which is difficult to have the germination of the spores: process which is at the base of the mycorrhizae formation. We hope that the research will find new ways of enquiry both to stimulate the spores and the development of the mycelium in its vegetative and sexual phase of reproduction. It would mean having the fruit-carpophore, improperly called truffle, but it is what the truffle-growing wishes to achieve. Even solving the problems here described the future of truffle-growing will be productive.

Truffle historical past has always been told by many in a suggestive way whereas the scientific point of view hasn’t transmitted us much. The present has inherited from the 70s a truffle-growing which can be defined as a science: Fassi, Palenzona and Fontana created, in a laboratory in Turin, the first mycorrhizae. This experience, once brought to France, has been elaborated by Gerard Chevalier and others. It cannot be forgotten, however, that the first mycorrhization of symbiotic plants had been made, some years earlier, by Mannozzi Torini who was the first to practise the sterilization of potting soil: a practice still alive that, however, in the light of some modern conceptions, must be revised.
In the early 80s I had the opportunity of attending a study-congress, as a relator, with two eminenr scholars: Arturo Cerruti and Anna Fontana. They examined thoroughtly several situations, therefore they have always advised to be cautioned about truffle-growing. It is useless, however, the presumption according to which the black truffle can grow only when cultivated whereas the white one cannot.
All serious operators know very well how things are but the truth is that a product can be considered such only if it increases the market!
Can we say so for the cultivated Tuber magnatum ? Everyone should draw his own conclusions.
Some institutes of research have recently decided to identify mycorrhizae through biomolecular techniques but it must also be said that mycorrhizae can be identified if in existence! In many cases, unfortunately, such premiss doesn’t work since it has been difficult to produce mycorrhizae under controlled conditions, as in the case of the Tuber magnatum, because of the difficulty of making the spores germinate which, as it is known, is the first step to the formation of mycorrhizae and then of truffles.
We wish that the research will find new ways of inquiry particularly about the germination of the spores, how to produce mycelium and how to stimulate in them the sexual phase of reproduction which means having the fruit, the carpophore, improperly called truffle, or rather all that truffle-growing proposes for its aims. We rejoice in the fact that, in some institutes of research, something has been done and hope that better results will follow. We are grateful to the organizers of many study-congresses which, regularly after that of Spoleto provide, with their own proceedings, a basis and a connecting line for further paths of research and observation. During the meeting of L’Aquila, in march 1992, the idea of the possible existence of the saprophyte truffle excited curiosity and fear in those who believed in truffle as completely dependent on plants. The reading of the proceedings helped us to understand what is the crux of the truffle problems as for example whether to sterilise potting soil or, in antithesis, to introduce into it micro-organisms such as bacteria as we learn from the meeting of L’Aquila, Scannerini,1992, in regard to bacterial stocks associated with the micorrizic Laccaria laccata truffle.
This work deserves attention because many are the questions and considerations which can lead to the truffle-growing future.
The bacterium taken into consideration is named Helper, and Scannerini takes the opportunity to say in a propitiatory tone: "we hope that the Helper will help us to solve the mysterious problem of truffle". Some other authors of the meeting of L’Aquila let us infer that some sorts of Tuber live together both in the same plants and in the same truffle-ground and that competition between several truffles cannot be absolute but rather it must be inferred some sorts of synergy. Moreover the supposed Sphaerosporella brunnea attempt on the Tuber magnatum doesn’t seem to be true, because it has been found that the micorrizic action of this mushroom derived from greenhouse environmental conditions. The problems that are met with in the growing of the magnatum are, however, not those of competition but those related to the difficulty of the germination of spores and to other parameters which are to be faced by the research work. From hence it must be inferred that the supposed competitiveness between mushrooms and, therefore, between truffles must be reconsidered. Antonio Ceruti, during the study-congress in Langhe Liguri, remembered that in the plants are combined, into a coherent whole, not only sugars and amino acids but also considerable quantities of substances rich in energy, such as ATP and NADPH, which go directly down to the roots. It is necessary to ask then what happen, beyond roots and mycorrhizae, in the mycelial net?
Why plants need interaction with truffles to receive mineral salts?
Plants could intensify their radical apparatus instead of relying on truffles hyphae: this let us assume that they do so for a better quality of salts as well as for quantity. It is possible then to assume that an energetic conveyance, that is of an electric kind, happen to be between the micelial net and the roots through a connecting line called mycorrhizae!
This subject leads us to take into account the presence of water into the ground as a primary element of the circulating solution indispensable for the exchange and the ionic transfer. This can be partially governed and particularly influenced during summer months through the use of a huge water support that avoids the leaching out of the truffle-grounds soil or rather the washing away of nutriments.
The relationship between "godmother" plants, such as the vine, the olive and the rose, and symbiont plant is another topical subject which needs further studying; a study whose aim is to establish the real reasons of the influence of these vegetals on the production of the carpophore. In order to do that, team investigations are at work and pedologists, botanists, geologists and truffle-seekers are working together to determine the influence and the mutual relationship between forest trees, shrubs and herbaceous plants present in the truffle-ground. Synergetic plants are endomicorrizic, therefore not suitable to have direct nutritional relationships with the truffle. It can be supposed, however, that their presence produce better edaphic conditions of differentiation and of development such as a greater oxygenation and structure of the soil; a better percolation of the water into the profile, with its transfer of food, which derive from their radical apparatus. Pedologists have made clear many soil feature whereas truffle-seekers have realised that mulching, especially that with straw, causes asphyxia, produces a low effect on the soil because of the hydrogenionic concentration (pH)- which goes below 7 - and makes the production of T. melanosporum inferior to that of winter truffles and of other less valuable truffles. From the 70s truffle-growing, at least in Italy, hasn’t done much but dedicate itself to an arbitrary and not controlled greenhouse practice whose only aim is to make money.
However, interesting experiences have already been done such as the reproduction of the stone instead of from the seed, from the layer on shoot of plants already productive and with truffle-grounds soil.
The essential importance of this experiment lies, even for those who believe in the hereditariness of the truffle inclination, in the fact that the layer, contrary to the seed, transfers such genetic heredity to descendant plants.
In the future of truffle-growing there is certainly the rescue of "still" truffle-grounds which, for many reasons, do not produce any longer. It will be necessary to single out the biological reasons of this productive interruption and to remove them in order to stimulate production in truffle-grounds. It is a heritage that cannot be abandoned. In Italy thousands of melanosporum truffle-grounds have been ruined by the hoeing of inconsiderate people. In France, from Var to Provence, to Perigord there is a great number of melanosporum truffle-grounds which have been abandoned from the 70s because of the transplantation of mycorrhizaed plants. Since in France it is the most important truffle, it would be useful, in order to bring melanosporum truffle-grounds into use again, to assess and to carry out those techniques already tried in Italy. The commercial achievement of the magnatum, thanks to its culinary qualities, cannot allow either a stasis or a slackening in the experimental research: it is necessary, therefore, to sweep away the causes that have reduced its production.
The black and the white truffle are two great realities in Italy, but while the black truffle growing is by now a noteworthy socio-economic reality with a sure future, the white truffle production must start again from the protection of natural truffle-grounds in production and the rescue of those made sterile by several conditions caused by man: the tillage using heavy means which erode, along the ditches, the magnatum habitat; the cementation of the bottom of the valley according to crazy pseudo land reclamations; the cutting of symbiont plants; a bad use of chemical artificial products such as fertilizers and weed-killers; the disputable scientific research and greenhouse practise; the tenacity with which thousands of unprepared truffle-seekers crowded truffle-grounds, cut roots with inadequate tools and uncover them: all that without a specific supervision as happens, on the contrary,for hunting and fishing.
Much has been told about the animals, such as insects, birds and mammals, which take part in the truffle reproductive cycle, but much less about the main character in the life of truffle: the dog.
Although an Italian act says that truffles must be harvested by dog aid, it is actually the dog who hunts truffles by man aid. It doesn’t exist just a truffle dog but truffle dogs of different breeds. Each of them is endowed with traits corresponding to different features of the productive environment.
In the future there will be a fast dog for harvesting plantations (Picture No.4), a calm dog for finding out a newly ripe magnatum from one metre deep (Picture No.2), a retriever for rich and superficial truffle (Tuber aestivum and its variety) (Picture No.3) and, when the international quarantine will be swept away, a small size dog, to take with around Europe, Tasmania, Oregon, Africa and China for harvesting local truffles.
How interesting should be to dig the famous chinese truffle named "indicum" with dogs. That could tell us its real value since Tibetans harvest it unripe and with hoes, thus hiding its quality. It is useful to start spreading the theory of the SENSE ANALYSIS to teach people how it is possible to distinguish, avoiding many frauds tricks, the chinese truffle from the excellent melanosporum with their eye, touch, taste and smell only.
Europe is the home of truffle and in the near future around this noble TUBER should spring out an international federation that bind together France, Spain and Italy.
All the presuppositions are there to let us hope that such an "European Group" will come to light during the international meeting of Aix.
For some years now chairmen of italian and french federations have met many times to plan a common action towards truffles: an experimental research in truffle-growing, professional training, the creation of an act and of an European rule.
In their late meeting, in the French city of perfumes, Italian and French people, with their truffles and their dogs, organised the first bilateral manifestation with a competition of dog hunters and a gastronomic show in a wonderful scenery like that of Grasse and Côte D’Azur which, together with Liguria, have, for the first time, bound two nations in the name of the precious TUBER.

Domenico BIGIONI
Presidente Federazione Nazionale Associazioni Tartufai Tartuficoltori Italiani

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